Girls living the dream – LAUREN HILL 夢を生きる女の子


People who are living the dream… don’t just envy them and say “yeah, would be nice to live like that, but…” Think of it…that could actually be you in the near future if you keep dreaming big and believe in the process!

Yay, here we go again, finally another part of ‘Girls living the dream’! I must say, this is definitely one of my favourite blogs to write about.

With each of these special series we are inviting special guests to share their life stories, filled with travel, art, play, creations and inspirations to help re-ignite your deactivated dreams. I feel that usually girls’ dreams tend to fade and disappear more often than boys’ dreams? A possible scenario could be, falling in love with someone who is chasing a big dream and you want to support that man in your life? Or you became a mum and are simply too busy. In some cultures with certain social confinements and regulations girls aren’t even “allowed” to dream or lead a path of their own desire…  That’s one of the main reasons we wanted to focus more on girls with this ‘Guest’ blog section.

You might think they are just living a dream life without having any obstacles or hard work that went into creating it. Well, let’s hear the real stories behind these inspirational people who live the dream life…

This time we have interviewed our dear friend LAUREN HILL and are stoked to share her story with you here. We are also super excited to announce that Lauren will be one of our surf facilitators at the Byron Bay Beach Life Retreat in March 2017. Enjoy the interview…


私はいつもそんな夢の様な人生を送っている人々を見ていると、どうやって成功したんだろう? どんな苦労や、ストーリーが影に隠れているんだろうと興味津々になってしまう。


だからこそ、このゲストブログ『Girls  living the dream』では、女の子たちにフォーカスを当てることで、背中を後押してくれるような役割ができればいいなと願っています。



ローレンは、私たちのオーガナイズする”BYRON BAY Beach Life Retreat’17″にて サーフセッションとQ&Aセッションを2日間にわたって行って頂く事になりました。是非みなさんにもご参加いただけたら嬉しいです。

Lauren is unbelievably humble, calm and gentle yet strong and steady, and of course very playful, too. I guess a lot of people would know her as a professional freesurfer, activist and beautiful life-partner of professional freesurfer Dave ‘Rasta’ Rastovich. But what don’t we know about Lauren? What actually is a free surfer or do they do? What is her passion? How much does she travel around the world…and does she actually enjoying being a famous surfer?? Lauren answered all of our questions in great detail and shared her visions and feelings about being busy, female and shared her deepest dreams very openly.

ローレンってどんな人?というとほとんどの方は、プロの”フリーサーファー”や、デイブ・ラスタの奥様という肩書きが浮かんでくるのでは? 彼女は環境科学をアメリカの大学で学び、環境や性別問題の活動家、そしてライターとしても活躍している立派なキャリアのある女性。

Lauren, can you please tell us a bit about your background, including your surfing history?

I grew up on a barrier island off the coast of Florida, surrounded by water. My family was always at the beach and my dad used to surf, so we always had boards around. There wasn’t a whole lot to do in our little community, so surfing was our savior.
I surfed competitively for about 6 or 7 years and won the U.S. women’s longboard title for under 18’s in 2001.

I quit competing to go to university, but I’d also reached a point where I wasn’t really having much fun competing. While earning a degree in environmental science, I started researching surfing, environmentalism and gender issues. “Thanks to” the Global Financial Crisis, I couldn’t get a job after graduating from university, so I began blogging about the intersections of surfing, feminism, community and environmental issues. That was about 8 years ago now. I guess it started because I didn’t really see my experience of surfing in any of the surf media that was around at the time; it all catered to a very narrow audience that often excluded women’s perspectives.

I wanted a place to read about surf culture as I want it to be — about camaraderie, community, environment and respecting diversity — so I started to create a small digital space for that to happen. That turned into The Sea Kin, which was just a blog at first, but now it’s morphed into more of a visual Instagram community.
Eventually, Billabong came along and gave me the incredible opportunity to pursue this crazy thing called “professional” free-surfing.


6、7年コンペティターとしてサーフィンした後、2001年のU.Sウーマンズ ロングボード選手権、18歳以下のクラスで優勝をしたの、でも大学で学びたいことがあって、競争の世界にも少し嫌気がさしていたし、コンペティターの道は諦めることにしたの。大学で環境科学を学ぶと同時に、サーフィン、環境主義や性別の問題などに関してもリサーチを始めたわ。

卒業後には、世界金融危機のお陰で有難いことに就職にもありつけず、サーフィン、フェミニズム、コミュニティーと環境問題を融合したデジタルなスペースを始めたの、あれはかれこれ8年くらい前のことになるわね。そのブログを始めた理由としては、自分が欲するスタイルのサーフィン情報が、その頃のメディアにはまだ出回っていなかったし、そこには女性の観点などが含まれていなかったり、とても狭いエリアの人々を相手にしたタイプのものになってしまっていたわ。自分が読みたいものを読める、取り上げられるスペースを作り出し、それが ”The Sea Kin” となり、インスタグラムコミュニティーと変化し、ゆくゆくはサーフブランドの大手として知られるビラボンが加わり、信じられないようなクレイジーな肩書き ”プロのフリーサーファー” となるチャンスをあたえてくれたのよ!


When did you move to Byron Bay and why?

While I was studying, I spent a semester abroad in Australia at Southern Cross Uni, which is just inland from Byron. I set it up so I only had to go to school three days a week, and the rest of the time I was surfing in Byron. I fell in love with Australia then.

Years down the line (and back in Florida), I fell in love with my now partner, Dave, who lived in Byron. So, I followed that love for him and the love for this beautiful place and made the move in 2010.





What differences do you feel between Florida and Byron (or AUS)?

Moving is always a challenging process that requires a good bit of trust and time to settle into making somewhere new a home.

I love Byron because of its crazy beautiful land and sea scape, the fact that ecosystems here are largely still in tact – the air and water are clean. I love the culture of this place; that people really value how they spend their time. Australians really value leisure time — not working, but playing — and a lot of that time is spent at the beach, which I love.

The culture of the US is generally very ambitious; everyone is defined by what they do and what they produce. That’s okay, I grew up with that attitude (and I’m glad that I did), but you sure do miss out on a lot of life’s great pleasures when you only focus on productivity. I guess it’s just about balance. I really miss the food in Florida — hot sauce, boiled peanuts, my mom’s cooking.




What was your biggest dream when you were little and what is it now?

One of my biggest dreams was to be in love with all of my heart. Thankfully I found surfing and it’s helped guide me through every major decision I’ve made in my life, from where to go to university, to who I was in relationship with. I’m still falling deeper and deeper into love with riding waves, always learning something new. So, I suppose my dream now is to honor the love that surfing has created in my life by being of service to our surfing community and to this incredible planet we get to inhabit.




How do you feel about people thinking you are ‘living the dream’?

I don’t think that there’s one singular “THE DREAM” that everyone would want to be living. Thankfully we’re all different, have unique gifts to share with the world and we all express our lives differently. For example, for the first year that Dave and I lived on our property, we didn’t have running water at all. No hot showers, even in the winter! And our toilet was just a trash bin with a toilet seat on it. I’m positive most people wouldn’t have called that dreamy at all. But it was part of the evolution of creating our own version of a dreamy life together.

I’m just doing the best that I can to live out my dreams for allowing the ocean and elements to guide my daily schedule, to love the people around me as best I can, and to make space for a life that brims with learning and play.




How does your daily routine look like?

Stretch, surf, blueberry smoothie, reading, writing, salad from the garden or a burrito,  siesta, gardening, surfing, scrabble.




How did you meet Dave?

We met through a mutual friend about 10 years ago in Australia. Dave asked to film me surfing under the full moon for a movie he was making called Life Like Liquid. We were both in other relationships at the time, but we shared this electric look from across a living room one night. It was totally unforgettable. Not logical, just like a future glimpse of love – that’s the only way I can describe it now. Shortly thereafter, I went back home to Florida to finish my Environmental science degree at university and we lost touch. Three years later, he wrote me an email and we started writing to each other every day until I finally made the trip back to Australia, and we’ve been together ever since.


共通の友達を通して、10年くらい前にオーストラリで知り合ったの。デイブはその頃 “ Life Like Liquid”というフィルムを製作していて、満月の月明かりの下でサーフィンしている姿を撮影させてもらえないかと尋ねてきたわ。ある夜、リビングルームの両端にいた私たちの間に稲妻のようなものを感じたの、忘れられない出来事だったわ。その時はお互いにパートナーがいたけれど、未来の愛を垣間見た様なものだったのね。



Can you share a little about where you live and about Dave, including your favorite place to surf, explore the environment, take time out and nourish yourself?

Our favourite place in the world to be is home. We’ve really created our version of a sanctuary where we can play, but also be quiet. We can get really creative in our ‘culture club’ or we can sit and watch the honeybees pollinating. And then the most beautiful beach is just a short walk away.




What do you do when you get back form the trips (incl. at home)?

When I’m away, I always miss picking fresh herbs, greens and veggies from our garden. So, that’s usually one of the first things I do when I get home. And drink as much of our own rainwater tank water as possible!




What are your thoughts on becoming a mother and having a family one day? (Any pressure form outside?)

It’d be such a blessing to become a mother when the time is right. There’s so much pressure as women to do it all, to have it all — and maybe we can, but not all at the same time. Our bodies and our lives are our own to decide how to best use them to serve our hopes, dreams, wishes and desires. I’ve purposely waited until I’m in my 30s before trying to start a family because my career has been so satisfying and rewarding. There’s pretty much an endless stream of people asking if I’m pregnant (which is never an appropriate question to ask, in my opinion) or when I’ll get pregnant. I find this kind of problematic because, while I do want motherhood to be part of my life, I don’t want it to wholly define who I am.




What are your 3 little spirals – things that keep you excited, balanced and bring you down to earth?

Making time to be quiet and still, balanced with dynamic times of intense movement and full body exercise. I’ve been loving winter walks over the headlands to watch the humpback whales migrating by. They are such a testament to the power of environmental activism and good policy – they were nearly hunted to extinction off the coast of Australia, but now their numbers are flourishing and we get to see more and more beautiful whales each year. Also a good surf in the sunshine always brings me right back into the beauty of getting into being in my body with so many ways to sense this wondrous world.






Living where you love.
Sustaining a living with what you love.
Empowering each other with who you love.
Lauren is living her dream love life!

>>> Now it’s time to create YOUR dream life <<<


>>> 夢の生活を創り出し生きる、今度はあなたの番 <<<

Magically captured by Ming Nomchong  &  Carly Brown

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